Bittersweet Turtle Adventure- May 2011

The turtle was more bitter than sweet. I should have known when it started to unravel early. First the Little Missouri River, normally a sleepy shin deep wade, transformed into a 7 foot deep torrent best suited for a kayak running at 7900 cfs.










But my hopes were still alive for a thru hike, until the bridge that I planned to use as a bypass turned out not to be a bridge at all, just a low water crossing 4x4's can use during normal flow of the Little Missouri, which is hardly now. Steve at the Forest Service in Medora said that with the mud lining the river bottom he wouldn't trust a tank to cross the river at the moment. So with my only way across blocked my thru hike was over, but I figured I would still walk the same distance just by going to the half way point and turning around and coming back the way I had come....


The plan was set and I was off at 5:30 am Saturday morning. Medora was still fast asleep as I walked through town.

 Past the entrance to the Theodore Roosevelt National Park

 The day looked inviting a crisp and cool 37 degrees



the walk in was very nice

Several Elk did not survive the winter and they were an easy meal for the coyotes and mountain lions that roam the area
over the first set of hills and into the inner valley. The high plateau in the background is my goal and then 13 miles further to Wanagan Camp site
It never looked like much when I first walked up to it, but Knutsen's Creek was the end of the line.
The entire inner valley is ringed by this creek. this is 3 times its normal size with all the snow and rain run off
Here are two pictures (below) from the same creek in April of 2003. The second picture shows just how difficult it can be to cross this section that is a bottomless mud base. Even then we were not able to cross the actual creek

The creek basically disappeared after a beaver dam ( that was no longer there unfortunately) and we were able to cross over. 










Now it was twice as wide and 5 times as deep
I had no place to go. I looked for an alternate way across. I went up and down the creek bed for 1/2 mile in each direction. It was all the same. no way to even get close as you just sunk in the mud.
But eventually I had to give it a go. I had only come 7 miles and it was only 8 o'clock in the morning. My first step in, I sunk to my knee, my next step in took me to my hip, with my trekking pole going completely under. I managed to get back to the bank with most of the mud still clinging to my feet
I eventually follow the creek by bushwhacking all the way to where it flowed into the Little Missouri river, hoping somewhere along the way it would narrow enough to jump across or some other way would present itself to get to the other side.
after following it for 2 miles, it flows into the Little Missouri with no decrease in size or speed.

I am a bit frustrated at this point!
The walk out was not without excitement however. Except for the dead Elk, I had only seen some deer in the morning and a very large beaver. I had wondered where all the Bison were located. After my encounter with Knutsen Creek I had concluded that most were trapped in the inner valley and up on the high plateau, as no man or animal could cross the creek in its current condition. (this was later confirmed by the Rangers at Park Headquarters)
Except for HIM

Standing in front of the gate that leads in/out of the park boundary a huge male bull bison. He was literally guarding the gate I had to pass through and he was not going to move.

I had moved up hill to his left (my right) to see if he would move. All he did was turn to face me. I have moved back down in the picture and as he sees me he turns again to face me down the trail.
I had to retreat to a hole in the fence I had seen earlier and try and get by him from outside the fence line.
I was able to walk right past and he just glanced at me, this time he stayed laying down and unconcerned.

This trail appears to be playing as hard to get as Lava Falls (search the blog for "Lava Falls") in the Grand Canyon. Maybe someday I will try it again. The unusually wet spring (they had 10" of snow just a week ago) and the rain just made a trip this early impractical. I checked the register on my way out and I was the first person on the trail, to sign the register, since November 2010.

**Watch for the Video compilation coming soon**

Animal Encounters:
White tail deer
Beaver
Bison

Recommended Restaurants:
Boots Bar and Grill (formally Iron Horse Saloon)
Medora Family Restaurant- good burgers and blueberry pie

final evening sky shot

Bittersweet Turtle Adventure- Maah Daah Hey thru hike- prehike report- May 2011

The Maah Daah Hey trail is a 100 mile point to point hike in western North Dakota. It runs roughly between Watford City and Medora North Dakota. It is part National Park, State Park and BLM land. This trail has been the property of Christine Hoyer and myself since we discovered it almost 8 years ago. We have hiked several sections of this trail over the years and even attempted a thru hike in January 2008. http://mustexplore.blogspot.com/2008/01/turtle-in-deep-freeze.html.
It has always been our plan to do this hike together, but due to changes in mine and Christine's jobs, she is not able to travel due to her higher position at GSMNP and I am concentrating more on Illinois and Wisconsin.
I have named this trip the Bittersweet Turtle Adventure.

The Adventure will start Saturday May 7th and while I have budgeted 9 days, I hope to be walking out on the 7th day.(Saturday to Friday)

My pack is set at 18 pounds including Food and Water- water is 1 liter carried
 The food is packaged for each day


Each day:
Dinner (various Hawks Vittles)  @ 600 Calories
Creme of wheat @ 130 calories
Welch's Fruit snack @ 90 calories
Gatorade energy drink @ 100 calories
Peanut Butter Crackers @ 180 calories
Pringles 1.5 oz @ 225 calories
Starbucks Via instant coffee @ 100 calories
Hershey's Dark Chocolate Bar @ 180 calories
Hot Chocolate Mix 8 oz @ 120 calories

Total Daily Calories   1725 calories
This should run about a 3000 calorie per day deficit- roughly 1.25 pounds per day weight loss.

Weather:
As I type this on May 1st it is snowing in western North Dakota with blizzard warnings!
The long term forcast shows rainier days with higher temperatures, but the temperature range looks like it could do anything at any moment, making clothing selection very difficult, especially to try and keep the weight down. My shelter will be the MLD Duomid tarp, which can withstand strong winds and rain. The bugs should not be a problem yet, but I will be taking the BPL bivy just in case. My cooking will be done with my UL tri-tri stove and pot from Antigravity Gear. I could cook on alcohol or wood, with wood probably being difficult to come by on the prairie.

First 4 days of the trip on the long term forcast
Sat
May 7
Showers
Showers
62°
41°
30%
62°F
Sun
May 8
Showers
Showers
62°
40°
60%
62°F
Mon
May 9
Showers
Showers
61°
43°
60%
61°F
Tue
May 10
Showers
Showers
56°
38°
60%
I have looked at this forecast 3 times now and each time it has changed.

Lost Valley Trail- May 1, 2011

Happy May Day-
I missed the 2 previous times that the BWSTL hiking club walked this trail, so I wanted to see it for myself and use it as a shake down for the upcoming 100 mile thru hike of the Maah Daah Hey trail in western North Dakota. The normal hiking trail is 6.5 miles, but I decided to make the full loop of 10.5 miles



This trail turned out to be one of the nicest trails that I have been on. It has a little too much walking on old access roads and 2 track, It is primarily a bike trail, but I really enjoyed all the diverse scenary.
The morning was clear and cool a perfect time to hike
Beaver Pond
At one time there must have been an old homestead on the property. The outline of a barn or shed below
All that is left is the chimney of the main houses
The trail leaves the 2 track and turns up on the ridge into the woods after about the 3 mile mark
All the wildflowers were in bloom along the trail on this first day of May





Carrying 18 pounds for the first time in a while, I did notice a few things along the ground. this little guys was just minding his own business, sunnying on a rock


 Water was still running everywhere from the recent rains















Check out the Youtube video of this hike


Wildlife Sighting:
6 bicyclists
4 trail runners
2 people walking their dogs
1 grey squirrel
heard 2 woodpeckers

10.5 miles- 3 hrs, 34 minutes- 18 pound pack weight
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