Ozark Trail Work- July!

I know, I know. Any post about being in the woods in Missouri in the summer, I jump on immediately to warn the poster of the perils of Missouri Summer heat, humidity and BUGS. However in my role as a trail adopter for the Ozark Trail Association (OTA), by the way you should join! In order to make sure everyone has a pleasant walk when the weather cools and it is time to get back out on the trail, someone has to go out and report on the trail conditions. I signed up for this, so out I went. Fortunately, the weather was a bit kinder this week (just a bit). Highs only around 80-85, but the humidity was its normal 80-90%, which means that I was drenched 10 minutes into my days. 

This time I was thinking ahead and I got an RV site just outside Bunker Missouri, which put me only about 14 miles from my Blair Creek sections. I could at least suffer during the day (it is not really suffering) and then go back to air conditioning, a shower, and a beer, after I finished each day. 

I mentioned in my post in March that I have two sections, each 3 miles in length. The first is called 2a and runs along a dirt road that services one of the Doe Run mines. In fact that section used to be part of a trolley that moved down timber from further back in the woods up to the forest road. This section is usually just fine, mostly flat, with a couple small dips, but no real issues. When trees do fall, they are not huge as this is mostly a 3rd or 4th growth area. The next section is called 2b and has a variety of terrain, with good representation of the total Ozark Trail, including a rare Fen, which can only be accessed in the late or early season, as the access trail is very overgrown, in the Summer months. 

Section 2a.

I got to the Little Sinkin Campground, just south of Bunker, around 9 am on Wednesday. Set up the RV and then went over to the Blair Creek Trail Head. According to the trail register (not that everyone signs it) I was the last person on this section in late March! I got my tools ready and headed out on section 2a. 

The temps were around 80f at 10:30.

2a is 3 miles each way. The tread and trail looked good on this section.

This is the kind of deadfall I am equipped to remove. Sure it is easy to step over, but it is better for walkers and horses if there are no obstacles at all. 

All gone

It took me about 2 hours to walk the 3 miles and when I reach the end, I stopped to have lunch and drink a whole quart bottle of Powerade.

My walk back is just to collect trash. This time I found only enough  to fill half a trash bag with old cans and bottles, mostly those that have been thrown from the road. If I can see it from walking the trail, I will pick it up. 

While walking back I also check for trail signage. I don't like a trail with constant markers, but depending on trail conditions, I like to think about when would I think it would be helpful to see a trail marker. This section is so wide and goes in a straight line, you don't need many, but while looking at them I spotted the master of camouflage. If you look at the trail marker you will see a creature seldom scene and for good reason. If you look closely, there is a vine just coming up under the trail marker and the Walking Stick (Phasmida) is just extending that natural cover perfectly.

Back to the RV for a shower and air conditioning... and beer 

Section 2b.

I was in bed early and up early. After breakfast and a coffee, I was at the trailhead around 7:30. Today was going to be a bit warmer (85f) and more high humidity, so I wanted to get an early start. Section 2b is more indicative of "real woods" with varied terrain and some small hills to climb.

Parked at the TH again and ready to go.

The old abandoned kiosk just down the hill from the TH. the new kiosk was behind my truck in the photo above.

I will give you examples of what trail conditions are like:

#1 The first new blow down is a big one. Several trees came down in the wind. All of these blown downs are mostly dead trees. I cleaned up all the smaller branches and brushed out a temporary path around the blockage on the upslope so it easy to get around, but this will require a sawyer crew later in the summer.

#2 I worked on this one for about 30 minutes. My bowsaw is 26" so I could theoretically get through this, but without a wedge or way to prop up one side, as the cut goes deeper the tree starts to bind the saw. I tried using various downed branches but none were strong enough to take the weight as a fulcrum. This one will have to wait for the sawyer crew as well, but fairly easy to step over. I will add a wedge and mallet to my pack next time.

#3 A couple of dead trees coming down together. About 24" in diameter. Marked for removal 

These next two are just general state of the trail photos. All this debris got removed and anything encroaching that would touch you above the waist gets chopped back. This section could use a general weed whack, but most of the growth, directly on the trail, will die back by fall. 

#3 more deadfall down in the hollow. 

#4 a tangle of deadfall at the lowest point on the trail. 

#4  I managed to clean this up and chop back to just inside the trail, so getting around it is no problem, but the rest will be cut out by the sawyers. 

#5 is a left over from my report in March. You can step over this one, but at around 24" it is too big for my bow saw. 

#6 slightly larger than #5 and again deadfall. #3, 4, 5 and 6 are all fairly close together on the trail. Unfortunately, about half way between any road in this section, for the sawyers. 

Arriving at Blair Creek, there was plenty of running water in the creek and shade, so time for a rest and a snack. There was even fish in the creek.

Beautiful green moss on the rocks with holes carved into the rock by the water.

I stayed at the creek for about 30 minutes and cooled off. It had taken me about 2.5 hours to go the 2 miles to here with cutting and brushing along the way. The trail from here starts to climb to the top of a ridge. About half way up there was another deadfall and this little guy was clinging to the log across the trail. Another fairly rare sight, a Luna Moth, North Americas largest moth. Fun fact: These moths don't eat, they are only alive for about a week to reproduce. This poor guy had lost part of one of his lower wings and was having trouble flying. He was, unfortunately, on the log that needed to be cut. I carefully moved him to a near by log so I could clear the trail. 

Logs cut and debris moved, no need to report this one as it is cleared. 

Reached the end of my section. You might be able to see the "C" on the tree, meaning the end of section 2b. The next few sections are looked after by the L-A-D Foundation. They are a private organization that works with the Missouri Department Of Natural Resources to manage and preserve the 144,000 acres of the Pioneer Forest which was the largest privately owned landholding in the State 

I stayed at the end of my section for about 45 minutes and just sat in the shade to cool down. I had lunch, but didn't really need anything to eat as I had ingested enough orb weaver spider webs and probably spiders to give me enough protein for the day. This particular variety are the banded orb weaver, they look like they have a sea shell on their backs. They are everywhere. Their webs are across the trail and are always, ALWAYS, right at my face height. When I set my pack down, I had 4 or 5 still hitchhiking on my pack!

Needless to say, it was rather easy walking back the other way, the three miles, to my truck. No spider webs and no trail debris to clear. When I got back I was drenched in sweat. I poured all the water I had left on me! 

The trail wasn't going to let me leave without exacting a price. I had thrown a long branch off the trail earlier in the day. I didn't think much about it, except it did rip a whole in the side of my pants. When I returned to the RV to shower, I discovered the damage.  

Trail 1, Craig 0

    

Day 1 stats:

I stop my Garmin watch on long breaks as it tends to add distance even when I am sitting still. So my time on trail will be much longer than indicated in the stats. Around 5 hours total for the day. 

Day 2 Stats:

Day 2 time is also skewed as I forgot to turn on my watch after my water break/stop on Blair Creek, on the way back, and didn't notice it until about a half mile down the trail. This is why the elevation profile is not symmetric. 6 miles total at just under 6 hours on the trail.

TGOC'26 Day 15 Peterculter to Aberdeen Beach + Finish

The final day walking on the Challenge dawned. I don't remember any rain during the night but when daylight arrived so did the look of rain. I suppose the weather will be the legacy of this year's Challenge. I did get myself up and my tent packed away and ready to go pretty early. I think I was ready to walk a bit before 7 am. Liz was stirring in her tent, but no where near ready (I don't blame her), so I called out a goodbye and set off. 

A view of the bridge over the River Dee again on my way back up to the Deeside Way. Fortunately, there are biking and walking paths that let you bypass having to walk on the sidewalk next to the B road (all except actually crossing the bridge, to get back up to where I left the Deeside yesterday.

sorry for the photos that are "foggy." My phone was in my pocket most of the day, due to the rain and drizzle. The lens had a tendency to fog up.

Crossing the Bridge

Getting back up to the Deeside Way you cross over the A90. You can see the rain on my phone lens

Back on the old railroad path 

You don't think about it too often, but train lines were routed along some very scenic locations, along a cliff or down by a river. Land that wasn't good for building was perfect for the train. Conductors would have had fantastic views. 

I knew this would be the most urban portion of the path, but I was really looking forward to admiring the bigger houses and gardens. Right of the bat, it did not disappoint. 

There are lots of information signs along the path from Peterculter to Aberdeen, but this was one of the most unique. The Camphill Estates were founded here in 1940 by a group of Austrians. Their goal and mission was to help children with learning disabilities. They occupy the Murtle House just off the path here, but now, they also have 120 locations world wide.  

Murtle Station once stood here as well and with it a hydropathic spa that would treat all sorts of illnesses with water therapy but inside and out. 

This early in the morning the path is nice and quiet. Various stations along the path have been turned into very lovely homes and businesses. 

I probably should have figured that a trail this close to various suburbs was going to tease me all day. Since bike riders are a big user of this path, various shops have used old bikes in a clever way to advertise their location and of course they all sell coffee. It is just at 7:45 in the morning none of them are open. 

This shop was called Grounds, I had to see if it was open. It is in Bieldside. It was a bit more than 200yrds off the path,  but it didn't open until 9:30!.... outrageous. 🤣

There were a total of 4 bikes on the path today advertising various shops. 

Just past the community of Cults the houses on both sides of the path starting getting really nice!

Into the closer suburbs of Aberdeen, I started to see more people walking their dogs and cyclists. More ornate bridges spanned creeks and roads. 

A really lovely modern house in the middle of all the traditional ones

Just a couple of hours after starting, I had done 6 miles, and  I was coming to the end of the Deeside Way. The Way ends in Duthie Park. 

Just before the park you cross over the Deeside Way, Holburn Street Bridge.

and you are into some lovely gardens and community food plots. 

Deeside Way, done and dusted, but this is a coast to coast walk, so on we go to the Aberdeen Beach and the sea. 

First found the train station for later and then about 1.5 miles to the beach and wouldn't you know it really started to rain hard.

Walking down the harbor toward the beach

Internet photo 

Made it to Aberdeen Beach.

and the North Sea

The Promenade above the beach was loaded with food trucks, but I was too early. I recognize there is a theme here over the last 4 days. 😆

This area also had many shops and an amusement park! 

So I am not quite finished. You have to return to Challenge Control in Montrose to officially check out and complete the Challenge.  Back through the wharf again to Aberdeen Station

Checking the big board for my train time. Time enough to finally grab a coffee.

All aboard 

It is a short 30 minute train ride to Montrose and about 6 blocks to the Park Hotel

Challenge Control, lots of lovely people to greet you. They have worked so hard to make the Challenge possible and safe. Lots of congratulations, tea, coffee and a biscuit. You sign out officially to complete the Challenge and receive you completion certificate.  It is still early, I think I was done at the beach by 9:30 and checking in around 11:30.

The box I mailed from Strathcarron with some clean clothes and my travel duffle bag did arrive and I picked that up as well. Control has really expanded, even since I have been doing the Challenge. They used to only need a small meeting room upstairs at the Park, now we need one complete side of the banquet room.

I stepped over to the Park Hotel bar to grab a celebration drink and finally relax a bit before going next door to the Links Hotel. It is the sister hotel to the Park and I have stayed there for everyone of my 6 crossings.

The Links Hotel

internet photo

My room

And another welcome site

In the evening on both Thursday and Friday there is a celebration banquet. It is a great time to catch up with friends and find out how there Challenge faired and to talk with new Challengers that you met during the crossing or didn't and talk with many more new people. There are many speeches; the number of Challengers, the average age this year, the number of people that needed to retire (quit) during the challenge and of course congratulating people for various completions.

Louise was getting her 10th crossing acknowledgement (plaque, champaign) and her husband David had arrived to meet her on the beach at her actual finish and then also attend the dinner.

Well done Louise 💗

Day 15 Summary and Stats:

The walk today was not the most exciting. I knew it would be urban. However, it was not anticlimactic. I enjoyed the path, looking at the houses, gardens and the view from the beach. I don't think I would call it guilt, but I felt a sense of "let down" for not being able to do the route I had spent two years planning, but plans change and the great thing about hiking is that you can find pleasure at anytime if you are just present in the moment. I was fully present everyday and while I try to relate my feelings during each day, despite any issues that occurred, I did enjoyed everyday to the fullest.

The Rest Of It.

Friday (the day after)

The next day, having missed finishing so close to the Charleston Strawberry Farm, Emma, Andy, Lindsay and myself all went for lunch and strawberry tarts. 

Some ending thoughts and people to thank:

• I took 1100 photos, this year, which I have sorted through in order to post a few in this years blog.
• Coming home, I missed my flight from London to Chicago and my duffle bag was lost for 9 days before being returned to me.
• It was 5000 miles (8000 km) from my house to this year's starting point in Strathcarron Scotland.
• update-The Burnett Arms did email me for the money. I transferred the funds to their bank via their instructions and their bank rejected it. So there we are. If the contact me again, I will try again, but only after they make me breakfast 

Trips like this would not be possible without the tireless work of the people in Challenge Control, this also includes all the volunteers that stage themselves in various locations around Scotland to manage Challenge venues. The Vetter's that review all the routes and provide valuable feedback and advice. The event keeps getting better.

Thanks to Fiona and Fergie at the Alex, Anne at the Links Hotel, the Laggan Coffee Bothy, Lindsay (Feshie Bothy) and all the businesses that made myself and all Challengers feel so welcome.

Thanks to Ali for letting a couple of wet hikers come inside for tea and cake! 

To Melanie and Billy in Cougie, you were without a doubt the biggest surprise and the highlight of my crossing this year. 

To Emma, Andy, and Louise- thank you so much for your time, patience in putting up with me, but mostly your friendship. 

Carl, David A, for being perfect companions. 

Lorna, Danny, Lucy, Clara- thanks for letting me be part of your journey. I enjoyed your company immensely- Hope to see you all next year. 

Humphrey- Thanks for putting up with an American, my dear friend. There will be others that I will miss in this post, but know, I enjoyed each moment and conversation.

Then mostly, to my wife Vicky, who continues to indulge me and my need to walk in the woods.💖

Done and gone, go away now. 😉