What a night and what a morning. The Jetty is someplace I always wanted to stay and it was a perfect spot to camp. Any pain of the long day, thanks to a couple of vitamin I, was forgotten, and the day looked more promising for some better weather. There was a good layer of frost on the tent this morning but it quickly dried in the morning sunshine.
Today is a very short day. After the first two days which I knew would be rough. I had not done any training hikes longer than 5-8 miles. I knew I would need a bit of a break on day three. This will be even shorter since I had done 4 miles of today, yesterday afternoon, getting to this spot.
Today I would be going to Cougie. Cougie is one of those hand full of stopping points on the Challenge that are spoken of with great enthusiasm and a bit of mystery. It is in the category of Callater Lodge, Ault na Goire and Tarfside. I have stayed at Callater Lodge (and what a night it was.. Link) and of course Tarfside many times. I think I had imagined that Cougie would be like Loch Callater. I could not have been more wrong!
Since I was in no hurry, I was the last, of the few people that also camped at the Jetty, to leave. It made for a nice panorama of the beach and up the loch in the morning sunshine.
The jetty building at the edge of Loch Affric
My camping spot, as I gained the main track along the loch.
Looking back to the direction I had come down Glen Affric the day before.As I started along the track, I spotted two deer on the hill above me.
Better picture, when I moved into the light
Images of walking up the Glen
I have seen this sign post many times, but today I will make the right turn and head up the track toward Cougie. At this point, John had joined me. He had camped just behind me near the bridge that passes over the River Affric. More stunning views
A large fallen tree over the path Still more fantastic views
My sightseeing was suddenly interrupted when the path abruptly ended into some hideous heather.
I still do not know where we missed the path. I later spoke to two different people that used two different routes getting up this section. So the correct path remains a mystery to me. Fortunately, this section was only about a half mile of heather bashing. I did feel bad for John bashing up the hill behind me.
We knew where we were going as we could see the fence line, which contained a gate to pass through, so this horrible experience only lasted about 30 minutes! Having gained the fence and finding the gate, John wanted to take a break for a snack. I wanted to continue to the top of the climb before stopping. At the gate we regained a "normal" path that I could see, so I decided to press on up the hill. As soon as I looked up, I saw two Challengers Jim and Kristen. Both experienced Challengers. I had walked a few days with Jim in 2022. I stopped to chat for a bit and it did seem that Jim, who is normally a very strong walker, was struggling a bit. I chatted with Kristen and she confirmed Jim was moving a bit slowly today, but they would be fine. Might be a bit understandable at 79 years young. They would be stopping at Cougie for a break, so I knew that I could watch for them later this afternoon.
I gained the road to toward Cougie, which was a bit of a relief and also found Clara from Denmark relaxing on a rock outcropping in the temporary Sun. This was a shock as I had passed her, also sitting on a rock in the Sun having breakfast along the path up Loch Affric, so she was well behind me, but had beaten me to this spot, but not passed me. She explained that she had taken a different "split" along the path that had taken her on the opposite side of the river, coming up the hill.... Still all very confusing. Clara and I walked along the road toward Cougie together.
This was her first Challenge, but she was already a very accomplished hiker having done the Cape Wrath Trail. The scenery continued to be fantastic
We were passed by a group riding horses from Cougie and they stopped to chat and we got to pet the horses
The time went by quickly chatting with Clara and we arrived at Cougie. Clara was moving on to Tomich, for the night, after a brief break here.
Cougie is Melanie and Billy's home, along with their two young sons. The entire area includes the homes and land of their extended family as well.
They open their home once a year for the participants of the Challenge as a lunch stop for anyone and a full B&B if you want to stay the night. The enclosed porch area is turned into a cafe/dining room.
View out the windows
There is a lunch menu board of soups and sandwiches as well as dessert treats and drinks. They could not be more welcoming.
It was just past noon when I arrived, So I ordered an egg and sausage sandwich, and since it had to be 5 pm somewhere, a hard cider.
Just a bit later, Andy and Carl finally arrived to meet up. I was also glad to see that Jim and Kristen showed up not too much later as well. Edit - Jim did finish his 15th successful Challenge and Kristen her 14th @78 years young! Amazing
Cougie is completely off grid. No electricity, no WiFi, barely a bar of cell service. Billy runs the generator from 6pm to midnight so we can have lights and charge electronics. The property has a couple of external dorm buildings, with little kitchens and bathroom facilities for hikers as well as a nice flat grassy area behind the house for anyone wanting to tent camp. I opted for an inside stay and had this room to myself.Later before dinner, Andy and Jeremy chatting in the living room.
The guitar only had 5 strings, so no music tonight. 😉
I think there were 12 Challengers here for the night.
The fire felt great and made it easy to dry out a few things The rest of the evening was spent chatting around the fire, drinking more cider and having a fabulous dinner.
I will say it plainly, this was probably the best hospitality I have ever experienced in any of my travels. Might be a combination of a couple of rough days, but Melanie and Billy looked after all the guests like they were actually friends visiting. They were always interested in our travels, what we might need to make us more comfortable. Mel and Billy could easily give a few pointers to any establishment I have stayed at in Scotland. On top of that the food! It was just fantastic. (so good I forgot to take pictures). The lasagna I had for dinner was surely the best I have ever eaten and the desserts..... My introduction to Toffy Pudding, and I doubt I will ever find its equal. I know I am gushing but it was a terrific stay and one I will always remember.
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| Pack matches the chairs 🤣 |
The next morning breakfast was just as good and once we had eaten our fill and all packed up. I managed to persuade our hosts to pose for a photoOf course, the whole gang had to get involved.
L-R: Me, Andy, Carl, Billy, Melanie
Day 3 Summary and Stats
