TGOC'26 Day 13 Aboyne Loch Campground to Banchory (Burnett Arms Hotel)

Leaving Aboyne, I am now in uncharted territory on the Deeside Way. I had been as far as Aboyne and one other spot that I will see later today, but 90% of today will be completely new. 

As I mentioned yesterday, if you look at a map the designation for the Deeside Way goes away for about 2 miles, but I am glad I found this path that runs along the A93 the entire way, and it is very nice path. I had spoken to a couple of Challengers over the last couple of days that did not know you didn't have to walk along the A93, so I hope they found this path and I hope no other Challengers in advertently walked along that very busy road.  

The "unofficial Deeside Way path, leaving Loch Aboyne. (above and below)

After the 2 miles you do again meet up with the official Deeside Way. You can immediately tell as it becomes a well engineered path again

You cross and open section of farm and grazing fields 

The sign posts also return to remind you when the path changes direction

You leave the dismantled railway track and go onto a pedestrian only path near the Mains of Drumduan

More cows

and curious ones at that.

You cross a minor road (that was still very busy) and enter a really nice wooded area. 

This is really a very enchanted area with a beautiful stream and wildflowers and several benches to sit on.

This is also the biggest elevation climb of the Deeside Way. It is a very steep ascent up from the bridge toward a house named Westerton.

There is a waterfall here in the woods and the whole area is lovely.

This tree had a massive span of branches. 

Ancient walls 

You drop down the back side of the climb to enter more fields. The mist had come down just as I was at the top of the climb, making the whole area seem very mysterious. 

Baby lambs playing hide and seek in the fields 

Coming into the town of Kincardine O' Neil. A high stone wall is interrupted periodically by "hidden" doors that lead to gardens in the neighborhood just behind. 

Kincardine O' Neil is a very nice little village.

All the these small villages are dominated by large local churches and big cemeteries. 

I would not call them scenic, but they are so well cared for and maintained that they are photogenic. 

The village had a convenience store, that was busy, and later I heard they are suppose to have the best breakfast sandwich in Scotland. I was saving myself for a spot that I hoped would come around lunch time. 

Another photogenic cemetery, especially with the rain and mist coming down. 

At the edge of the village was the town elementary school. I passed just as an entire class was starting on a "walk." There were about two dozen kids all dressed for the weather taking a class walk along the Deeside way and going in my direction. 

I was struck with two thoughts; How cool this was that the teachers and students get out in all weathers for exercise, especially a walk, and if this was the US, the school would likely be sued for taking the kids out in this weather... 😆 

More power to hardy Scots! 

I passed through the crowd of students and teachers saying hello to everyone I could, most of the kids were busy with their peers, but some said good morning and hello. Probably couldn't understand me with my funny accent. 😜

A mile or two more and I reached Potarch Bridge (above) Vicky and I had camped at the village park here in 2014. At that time the hotel and restaurant was closed and abandoned. I had heard earlier that it was now open again as a hotel and cafe. The cafe part interested me the most as I was hoping it would be open today for lunch. 

And it certainly was. It was open starting at 10 am and I arrived at exactly 10 am and was the second customer of the day.  Debbie, a Challenger that I had met yesterday in Aboyne, had camped here last night. I remember being taken aback when she said she was walking on from Aboyne all the way here after coming from Ballater that same day as well. This was her first Challenge, she walked in the door just in front of me from camping in the park. She clearly has what it takes for this Challenge and many more. Speaking of first time Challengers, that have what it takes, Danny and Lucy came in just a few minutes later, they had also camped in the Park just across from the cafe. I have run into both of them a few times already including at the Red House Bothy. Lucy had lost a pole and actually been knocked down, and soaked, by the strong rushing water in one of the stream crossings. I loaned them one of my poles to pitch their tent that night. However, they carried on, after what could have easily unnerved anyone into throwing in the towel. They are made of the right stuff and it was a pleasure to see them again. I commented to Danny that given his ridiculously young age, he had plenty of years to be the Challenger with the most crossings.... 

A latte (above), I appreciated the latte art, and a burger (below) both were excellent and a great way to spend an hour or so out of the rain. 

The Potarch village park across from the cafe 

After was was more than an hour, I couldn't put off going back out into the drizzle and carrying on. The cows didn't seem to mind the rain one bit. 

The Deeside Way now passes through the Slewdrum Forest and the Blackhall Forest toward Banchory.

When it wasn't too rainy, you did get some nice views

The mist came down to about 250m or 750 feet, which just reminded me that I was going to be at 500m to 600m all day, just south of here, on my original route over Mt Battock and Clachnaban. In both cases I would be seeing nothing. As it is,  I am happily strolling along this path.

Getting into Banchory, you pass the gates of the former Blackhall Castle. The castle was torn down after WWII, The gatehouse was made into a B&B for fisherman (I would say well off fisherman 😉) as the estate area is now a well know fishing destination on the River Dee. 

The River Dee, from the Bridge of Dee, walking into the town of Banchory.

Boy Scout Totem Pole

I had booked the Burnett Arms Hotel on my phone last night. Price was the biggest consideration as I just needed someplace to stay in the area. I had tried both of the caravan parks in town, but both said specifically they didn't take tents. This was advertised as a queen bed for £65, about $95.

It was only around 2:30 pm, so my room was not ready yet, so I went to check out the Bar and have a cider. 

Well my room was not exactly as advertised. Not a queen and probably the smallest single bed I have ever seen. My feet were certainly off the end of it.  The TV didn't work, the radiator didn't work, the key they gave me worked my door, but not the lights for the room and I had to leave the hot water running for 30 minutes on high just to get some barely warm water for a shower. Oh and the shower door didn't close all the way, so I need to put a towel on the floor to not make a puddle on the floor.... 

Dinner was excellent and so was the gentlemen working the bar and restaurant. In fact he was doing all the jobs I could see. He shuttled between the bar, restaurant and also handled reception if anyone came in or needed something at the front desk. 

Another great thing about Scottish Bars is that dogs are welcome. 

At dinner my waiter asked me about breakfast. They served breakfast from 7-9 in the morning. I asked if I could have breakfast at 7:30. He marked down my time and off to bed I went. I had another cider at dinner, so it really didn't matter how small my bed was, I was asleep very quickly. 

Evening view out my window. 

I woke up around 7 am, packed all my camping gear, that was now dry, and was ready to go downstairs at 7:30. I went down to the breakfast room and no one was around. The hotel was completely dark! No one was here at all. I figured that I might be the only one that asked for breakfast at 7:30 and they just forgot, so I went back upstairs, I was in no hurry this morning as my days are only about 12 miles each. I came back downstairs at 8 am and still there was not a sole in the hotel and all the lights were still off. Several guests came down and looked as surprised as I did. They just put their keys on the front desk and left the hotel. My dinner was put on my room tab, so I was not as eager to just leave without paying. At 8:15 I found a piece of printer paper and a pen and left my name, phone and email and a note saying what I owed, if they wanted to contact me, and I left my key on the front desk. Weird... although I heard later I might not have made the best choice, as the comments online where similar. 

Day 13 Summary and Stats:

TGOC'26 Day 12 Ballater to Aboyne Loch Campground

Having thought about what I wanted for most of the day yesterday, I decided that I would take the Deeside Way out all the way to Aberdeen. While considered to be a mostly a "tourist" route, it would be the equivalent to one of our rail to trail paths in the US.  I have not finished in Aberdeen before and I have not been beyond Aboyne before. The Deeside Way starts here in Ballater and ends in Aberdeen, so I would also be checking off a complete "thru hike" inside the Challenge. The fact that there would be no more ascents, wet crossings or uneven ground on this Challenge, did not bother me one bit!

Deeside Way, here I come.

Leaving the "Alex" I said goodbye to Fiona and Fergie and thanked them for another wonderful stay. I will certainly be back this way again. I have had a few favorite towns in Scotland; Aviemore and Braemar are both great, but I seem to gravitate to Ballater more than any other. 

The beginning of the Deeside Way is lined with flowing plants and shrubs. It made for a happy start to this new plan.

A view down the path 

More framed shots along the way

These painted rocks are pretty, but not to everyone. I am not a big fan of them being left along the path. I appreciate people wanting to share, but I believe they should stay in your own garden. 

Louise had texted me in this morning that she was starting out and I had said I would try and meet up with her at the start of the Deeside Way. I ended up being a bit ahead and when she texted again saying she was starting out and bringing David, I sat down and waited. I was only a mile or so ahead, so they caught up in no time. 

The weather started to turn again, but walking with two of my favorite people made it special despite some drizzle. 

Cambus O' May Bridge. This bridge was heavily damaged in 2015 by Storm Frank. It needed extensive repairs and took until 2021 to fully repair and reopen. It even received significant donations from then Prince Charles, now King Charles. This is an important bridge for the community as it is the only access across the River Dee for many miles and connects many circular walks and bike paths around the Ballater area. 

(below) The Bridge at the time of the storm!  We sat for a rest and a snack, this year, at the very picnic bench pictured below. The picture above is taken while sitting at that table. 

internet photo

Passing by the old railroad station in the Muir of Dinnet woods. I had not realized that just across the road is the Muir of Dinnet Nature Reserve and I heard from two Challengers, later, that it was well worth spending the time to take the circular nature paths in the Reserve. - Next time

After solving most of the worlds problems between myself Louise and David, the two of them needed to head south from Dinnet to take the path that would eventually get them to Tarfside. This is also the path that I would have originally taken. We said our goodbyes, but I knew I would be seeing both again on Thursday for the celebration dinner in Montrose, where Louise would be receiving special recognition for her 10th successful Challenge... 

In Dinnet, Andy, Lyndsay, Barbara, and Lynsey were all lounging under a tree taking a break. Barbara set off ahead and it seemed that the others would be a few minutes so I carried on just behind Barbara and eventually we walked and talked a bit together. 

Barbara mentioned that she was just "dawdling" along, but my pace was a just over 3 miles per hour and she quickly left me behind. She is 74.

Soon you come across a glider plane airfield

And a road side park, this one had a coffee truck. I practically ran over, but it was closed.

I will say that Scotland has really upped its game when it comes to coffee culture. Many excellent coffee shops now dot the towns. However, what they haven't come to grips with yet is opening times! They want to open around 9 or 10. Good coffee needs to available at 6 or the very least 7 am. This will come into play more in the next few days. 

I stayed here to have lunch. As I was eating, Andy and the rest of the Challengers caught up, and since there was no coffee, continued on toward Aboyne. 

I caught up soon after and we all walked together to Aboyne. Andy and company were also headed eventually toward Tarfside, but like Louise and David were going to spend the night, about half way, near a locked bothy on the Fungle Road (a path that starts at Aboyne and goes south toward Tarfside)

 

(below) St. Thomas’ Episcopal Church in Aboyne

The Group decided to stop for lunch and a drink at the Boat Inn, before carrying on the remainder of their day. The Boat Inn is a well known pub and hotel in Aboyne. In fact Vicky and I were stopped by two rather nice but obviously drunk gentlemen coming out of the pub in 2014, they were interested in what we were doing. I had already eaten my lunch, but would never say no to a beer and a snack. 

I had an Affogato. A delicious Italian drink. You pour espresso and frangelico over ice cream. 

I stayed for only 30 minutes before I left the group as their lunches were arriving and headed toward the Aboyne Loch Caravan Park. Making my way back to the Deeside way, I found Humphrey just arriving in town. We chatted for a few minutes, not nearly long enough, since he is one of the most interesting people in the world. I let him know where the others could be found and off he went to join them. 

The Deeside disappears from the map, just as it is leaving Aboyne, for several miles, but while it might not be official, you can make a detour into the residential area, with the golf course, and it will take you, through the woods (photo above), safely alongside the major A93, all the way to the Caravan Park. This is important as you lose any sidewalk for "verge" leaving Aboyne. You can see the A93 (photo below) with no room for pedestrians. 

The Caravan park is run by a lovely women.  When I made my reservations, just yesterday.  She told me she had room and to just come ahead and we would take care of any payments when I arrived. 

Heading to my tent site, I arrived in time to see someone's house being moved! 

The tent sites were really nice. I pitched up just on the edge of the Loch and there is bathhouse with showers a pavilion with tables and electrical outlets. The Wi-Fi is also very strong. It actually felt good to be in the tent for the night. 

Looking over at the Pavilion for the tent sites, with picnic tables. I was joined later by several other challengers. One doing the full Challenge and 2 doing the new TGO East (a pre-assigned route, starting in the middle of Scotland,  that can be done in one week, instead of two.

Relaxing. The Deeside Way will take me 48 miles over 4 days. So no need to rush or worry. I could crawl to the finish from here. 😆

I might have spoken too soon regarding a quiet night. The swans, ducks and just about every bird in the area seemed to be "mating" for most of the night. At times it was quite the racket.... 

Day 12 Summary and Stats: