I had the opportunity to go with Jenny and Gwenda again for the last section they needed to complete the continuous sections of the Ozark Trail. Like other long distance trails the OT has a 235 mile long continuous footpath, divided into 8 sections, however, it also has 8 sections that are outliers, standing alone and yet to be connected to the main backbone path. Jenny and Gwenda have done many of these outlier sections as well, but this hike would finish the connected paths.
You can see all the sections on the map below:
ThursdayThe Karkaghne section is just about right in the middle. A section of 28.4 miles. That was planned for two and half days.
Unlike the Blair Creek section we did at the first of the year (last post) this weekend was forecast for higher than normal temperatures for the end of February and this section is also much drier than the Blair Creek section with fewer reliable water sources.
Since it works best for everyone to meet up on a Thursday night and be able to get an early start on Friday, I volunteered to drive down early and cache some water at two different locations, one for each day. This was we would be assured of reliable water each day. This takes a big mental burden off the enjoyment of the trail and the mileage you must make. A common practice now days on long trails is to see volunteers cache water along known dry stretches for hikers. (One can not deny the commitment and generosity of these volunteers, while I have mixed feelings about this practice, one thing that is undeniable is that it extends the hiking season and the number of people that can enjoy a trail. Without this practice, you would certainly get too many people on the trail, as hiking would only be possible in some areas during a short period of the year.)
Off I went to the true washboard backroads of Missouri to find places that forest roads intersect the trail. In fact, it was not that hard. The first water cache was actually along the original Trail of Tears route, It has many names on the map; Karkaghne Scenic Drive, Hwy CC, FR2233, or FR2236, depending on which direction your approach it from. This would be about 7 miles on gravel to reach the point the trail crosses the road.
One gallon of water for the middle of day 1, hidden away under a downed log.
The second was a bit more challenging only in the fact that there were more roads than show on any map I could find, not unusual just a bit more trial and error to find the right forest road that would at the best distance to end day 2. This turned out to be at FR2309A.
FR2309
Two gallons of water stashed in the log for the end of Day 2 and the morning of Day 3 (very stealth)
We are all set. Gwenda and Jenny will arrive in the town of Bunker (pop 400) late this afternoon and we will get dinner at one of the only two restaurants in town (Mexican or Pizza). We chose Mexican and I will say, we chose correctly. La Bonita is a very tiny building but one of the best Mexican food I have eaten. If you are hiking this section or the Blair Creek section I highly recommend you eat here!
After dinner, we went just 3 miles down the road to the Hwy72/P trailhead to spend the night, before shuttling cars to our start point, in the morning, the Brushy Creek Lodge. Friday
Sleeping in the backseat of my truck is never comfortable, but better than pitching a tent or hammock at a highway intersection!
How many days will we be gone!
Everyone made it through the night and we were up and getting sorted early. We would drive up to Brushy Creek Lodge to park cars and start the hike from the lodge as it has a spur trail that leads directly to the Ozark Trail. They charge $5 per day, but it is well worth it. The official start of this section is the trailhead at Hwy J, however Gwenda and Jenny had already walked past there to Brushy lodge (3 miles) on a previous hike, so those miles were completed. Hwy J trailhead has a history of car vandalism, so much safer to park here at a well know establishment, but the real reason is that Brushy Creek serves breakfast.... Biscuits and gravy, eggs, bacon! yum...
After more than enough calories, we set off. And you immediately burn off breakfast as it is a very steep climb up the ridge to join the Ozark Trail.
Topping out on the ridge. The Karkaghne is neither a ridge walk or a pointless up and down (PUD). It is a relatively flat walk on the side of each ridge as you look up to the ridge just above you and then down into very deep hollows
The only reliable water on the first part of the Karkaghne is Gunnis Branch. It did have plenty of flowing water, but since we had only been going about 3 miles then we didn't need any
We arrived at our water cache at 5.5 miles for the day and had a sit down for an early lunch. After lunch the day got to be quite warm and we were covered up not from cold or wind but sunshine!
Still lots of great views before all the leaves come back
The Doe Run mines are in this area and they need lots of electricity. The cuts for the power lines are extensive and freshly cleared. Mid afternoon we arrived at Sutton Bluff. Hot and a bit tired. We could have gone on, but this made a great stopping point. Sutton Bluff is directly on the West Fork of the Black River. It is a very nice campground with amenities and even RV electric sites. It doesn't officially open until April 1. Nothing was actually unlocked or open, so I can't confirm if we were actually here 😇
West Fork of the Black River
Day 2- Saturday
We might have been hiding from the Sun yesterday but it got chilly overnight. We beautiful clear skies the low was 37f. I had on everything I brought and was still just at that cold point around 4 am.
Lovely sunrise
Breakfast made and coffee consumed
Chores done
Bags packed
Left the place like we were never there... because we weren't!
Quick walk to cross the low water bridge that comes from the other side of the river.
First few minutes is the biggest climb of the day. You have to go from river level to the top of the surrounding bluffs.
864 feet at the river to 1208ft at the top and rewarded with great views back down to the campsite and up the river.
A lovely carpet of green to walk on
Another beautiful day, but already getting warm. Warmer than forecast the temperature today will be close to or just over 80f.
The walking today was just fantastic.
After 3.5 miles we come to the Bee Fork. This was suppose to be the most reliable water source today and a true wet crossing. I found some turkey tracks in the sandy shore.Gwenda crossing the Bee Fork
After crossing and sitting down to dry off and filter water, we met the caretaker volunteer for this section of trail. He informed us the Bee Fork was contaminated with heavy metals from the Doe Run mine just up river. At the moment there is no information on the OT maps to warn of taking water from this creek. There are warnings on the Middle Fork Section Map just North of this one for another stream close to a different Doe Run mine. This was not welcome news as we had just filled up our water bottles for the next 6 miles of trail until we reached out water cache for the day. The good news however was that he said there was water at 4.5 miles and 6.5 miles, both creeks that are clean and drinkable. The first was only a short distance away so I decided to not drink from my newly filled bottle and wait for the next creek. No need to start glowing in the dark! 😉
Leaving the Bee Fork, this section we were now walking was heavily damaged by an EF-3 tornado in 2025. The storm with winds over 145mph did extensive damage to this area. It is also shows very little signs of being used, with a sudden reduction in almost all trail markers.
The OT did an outstanding job to clear this section, Walking through here I could only wonder what it would have sounded like to be here as the trees were falling down all around.
We arrived at the first of the steams with clean water and I dumped my bottle for a refill. Jenny is doing the same.
Interesting color on this fungus. Almost looks like a butterfly in the log.
The creek at mile 6.5 was much larger than I would have imagined.
After lunch it was more of the same. Side hilling on nice tread going round each ridge and looking down into the hollows.
Through here many boundary markers as the trail comes right up against private property in many areas. Look at me! I mark a boundary. Can you image people actually fighting or land right? 😲😆
We walked on until our water cache in the late afternoon. The 2 gallons was right were I left it, albeit the area looked much nicer than I remember it when I dropped off the water... So after distributing the water we just decided to camp a short distance from the water cache. Making camp while still in the woods and starting dinner. Gwenda had felt the heat today and retired early without dinner. I could only remember my same feeling back in August when I was on the River to River trail in Illinois and the temps had been in the 90's. A miserable feeling to have some mild heat exhaustion.
Jenny's set up as the sun sets.
Day 2 Stats
Take a look at the map below of day 2. The yellow line represents the Bee Fork Creek. It passes directly under #46 lake, which is Doe Run' largest tailing (mining sludge) pond!
Day 3
Gwenda was feeling much better this morning. I woke being truly cold! The temps were not quite as cold, around 39f, however I was chilled for most of the early hours this morning and glad to get up and get moving around.
All packed up like I was never there (I ruffled the leave up, so not even my footprint was visible).
After breakfast it was off quickly. Today with a high only in the 50's, we were not waiting around for the Sun.
Another big swatch of power lines, newly mulched, so no problem with high weeds yet.
More evidence of the power of the wind as the downed trees continued today.
This section near Grasshopper Hollow was particularly dense with blowdowns, still wonderfully cleared by all the volunteers of the Ozark Trail Associations. - THANK YOU.
Grasshopper Hollow contains the largest non glaciated Fen in the country. It is listed to be home to many rare species. The trail doesn't go through the Fen. I will come back some time just to explore both this and the Fen in the Blair Creek section just to the South. The sun did return and the walking was flat and fast.
More boundary markers
Many different species of mosses and lichens on the trail
One more small creek to cross at mile 7 for the day and then one last big uphill.
JennyGwenda
All done- Thanks ladies for letting me tag along again and congrats on completing the continuous sections of the Ozark Trail. After taking the remaining car at the Hwy P/72 trailhead back to Brushy Creek, where we thought we would get lunch (turns out they were closed today). We headed to Bixby General Store. Always a good place for after hiking food!
Day 3 Stats
No comments:
Post a Comment
Because of spammers, I moderate all messages. Your comments should be posted shortly- Thank you