TGOC '22 Day 12 Tarfside to Fetteresso Forest

The weather looked to be the same as yesterday, some chance of rain off and on for most of the day. I had two choices for today's route. My primary route was up and over Mt. Battock at 778 meters, toward the Fetteresso Forest, but yesterday as I was coming into Tarfside I could see Mt Battock, from the Hill of Rowan, and it was completely covered in clouds.  My second option was to take a slightly lower route through Glen Dye. Maybe I was learning something after all and decided on the route through Glen Dye. 

I was up before even the Challenge staff was ready to receive morning patrons. I was planning to make my own breakfast anyway, since I had a bag full of food that I had sent myself at the Clova Hotel, which included 3 days of Captain Crunch cereal and powdered milk (breakfast of champions!). I used the self catering kitchen in the back of the rectory to make my own breakfast and coffee. 


I said my goodbyes and thanks to everyone, settled my bill for room and board with Alvar and out the door I went. 
Tarfside is such a delightful little village. 

Walking out of Tarfside,  A hill covered in wildflowers

Another lovely cottage 
Other TGO Challenger's pitched on the soccer field

Lovely wildflowers growing from yards and fields along the road leaving Tarfside 
























View of the hills across the Glen Esk. The first Highland Cattle (Hairy Cooz) I have seen on this trip.

A hair cut just like my son. 

It is a fair walk down the road to Millden Lodge to start up to the hills.
The climb is steady after leaving the road but the views open up.

The tracks are wide and graded so walking is very easy all the way to the top of the climb at 485 meters (Stobie Hillock). A lot of these hill tracks are new and don't appear on the map and some older tracks on the maps are gone. I think this is mostly due to the increased grouse and deer hunting access
For a walker the views are amazing.

Climbing up the tracks, a bit of rain moved in, and followed the hill just to my right. For a while, it was raining on my right shoulder but not my left, as I walked up the track. The umbrella did the trick.


Wonderful view, looking back, as I pass from one property to the next 

When I reached the Hill of Turret, I thought I followed the path I created in blue, however, the path I walked was not the same. The track had been changed and now led to a locked gate. The original track was no longer on the ground. There was nothing but a field of knee high heather and bog on the other side of the gate. Looking at my GPS and map, I simply walked up the fence line to gain the top of Shank Of Birks. The fence here was old and incomplete, so I easily went through it and carried on toward Stobie Hill.

At the fence line just after Shank of Birks there is no path on the map anyway, so this was just another short section of cross country until I reached the beginning of the Water of Dye at the top of the map above. 

This was really boggy ground and you can see from my actual track, in red, on the map, I needed to zig-zag a bit to go in the direction I wanted. I never planned to come this way, so I did not give Google Earth a good look before hand, otherwise I would have seen some faint tracks leading to some Grouse Butts that I could have drawn and followed to make this a bit easier, but it was only 30 minutes of bog bashing. 

I did end at a fairly precarious climb down to gain the Water of Dye track. You can see how close together the contour lines get on the map. It was not the most elegant way to come off that trackless section, but taking my time, I worked down the cliff face with no issues. (photo below)

Gaining the Glen Dye track and looking ahead. 


Just a little bit of elevation on the Glen Dye track, and you can see the trackless hill section. 

This was just a beautiful walk next to the water and through the Glen.

Around lunch time I reached Charr Bothy (I am told, the second most haunted bothy in Scotland). The couple that maintain the bothy were there and finishing up some chores and I sat inside to have some lunch. 




A nice chair and table for lunch.


Leaving Charr Bothy

More outstanding walking down Glen Dye. I was told the owners of Glen Dye also have a plans to 're-wild' the Glen. They will be planting thousands of trees and culling the deer population. 

I came to the end of Glen Dye and the car park. There is the ruin of Spital Cottage. I had planned to camp somewhere around here tonight, but it was early and it was too 'touristy' with many cars in the parking area. You can see Clachnaben, rising up in the background of the photo below. This is a very popular walker target. Clachnaben was on my original route for today. 


I decided to get a few more miles done and head into the Fetteresso Forest today. The B974 highway runs along this section and it was busy, but I found an abandoned track that cut a good deal off the road walk. Not many people have come this way (below)

Entering the Fetteresso Forest via a gate and then onto a very wide track that serves both the forest operations and recently the wind farm creation. These tracks at one point were just normal size but have been expanded to accommodate all the heavy construction traffic over the years. 

The Fetteresso is a production forest. The trees are planted so close together that there is virtually no room to stand under them, let alone, pitch a tent. I realized almost immediately that I had probably come too far for today and might have trouble finding a place to camp. 


The rain was coming and I just kept walking to try and find a spot. I finally found a little bit of flat ground that a bulldozer had made that was bit enough for my tent. It was partially under a small pine. Literally right next to the track, but I did get set up before the rain arrived and made one of my homemade dinners for tonight. Buffalo Pasta. 

Once my tent was up and the rain started, I was an easy target for Scotland's giant black slugs. 

The night of the Slug invasion! 

Today's Stats:




TGOC '22 Day 11 Glen Clova Hotel to Tarfside

Both Andy and I were up early this morning. I managed to talk the staff into letting me have breakfast at 7:30 am again, about a half hour before their normal serving time of 8 am, if I pre-ordered the night before.  I had ordered pancakes and scrambled eggs. Andy, being the well organized and well planned person that he is- NOT, thought he might be able to talk them into letting him order early when I went down for my breakfast- NOT! 😁, but fear not, I was happy to split my breakfast with him, although I think they made the pancakes last night so maybe not the best ordering choice, as I might have taken them to use as tent pegs.... The eggs and coffee where excellent and I had sent myself a huge resupply box to the hotel, so I was full up with food for the rest of the walk. There are no more grocery stores on the remaining 4 days of my Challenge. This hotel is really very fine and I recommend it highly. After checking out, I was headed straight up the hill behind the hotel. Andy was off to try some crazy route up a hill he had never tried before and wasn't quite sure if it was even possible.... sounds perfect mate! We would both, hopefully, end up in Tarfside tonight. We had made a promise that whomever arrives first, nicks two rooms at St Drosten's. Are we turning into softies? - NOT.

Looking back you can see the Clova Hotel as I ascend, rather steeply, up the hill. The clouds are already obscuring the hills above.
Dear Reader, please don't comment that I am going up above 750 meters again today, in search of views. We have already established that I am not going to change my behavior regardless of the evidence, so there is no need to beat that dead horse! šŸ˜


My original destination was 'The Snub' around Loch Brandy. Approaching Loch Brandy, I can see it (picture below) covered in clouds this morning (remember no comments!) So I decided to take the alternate route up the other side as it looked to still be clear and I might still get a good look at Loch Brandy. 

My original route is in Blue and my actual route, tracked on my Garmin watch is in Red 

This route was not as steep, but a bit longer and had some exposed peat bogs, fortunately, even give the rain, these were dry enough to easily walk on. 

Gaining the top of the ridge across from 'The Snub'

Just as I am almost to the top, the clouds roll in 

But then the roll out just as quickly

In just a matter of a few minutes the clouds seem to find a ceiling just above my position... Karma? 

Showing a very nice view of Loch Brandy and 'The Snub' ridge.

The Cairn on top of Green Hill (870 meters) 2854 feet. 

Turning East and looking ahead.

The clouds seem to rise just above my level of walking as I move east on the ridge. There is really not much of a path here. You can see on the map that this is just a single line on an OS map, and remember what that means! 

This ridgeline does bounce up and down quite a bit. It is not really level walking, more like dipping down and then coming back up. 
(Below- dipping down)

(below,Going back up) Nothing drastic, just a bit of a roller coaster. 

It is lovely up here. 


As you reach 850 meters exactly, there is an electric fence. There is really no path here, but why would there be a stile to allow you access over if you were not suppose to take it? 
This was a good decision. You can get to your destination on either side of the fence, but crossing over keeps you high and away from dropping down into two muddy burns (creek beds) you can see on the map along my original route in Blue. 

The Red line keeps you higher up and it is a much easier and dryer walk. You cross back over the electric fence at the second stile and can still climb up to the top of Muckle Cairn from here, before continuing on the original side of the fence East.

Continuing on 

Between Wester Skuiley and Skuiley I had decided before today to not lose all the elevation I had gained, by taking my original route in Blue. I would go purely cross country over to Burnt Hill, staying at around 650 meters. (in Red) 

Starting my cross country detour with Mt Keen straight ahead in the distance.

Wanting to follow the same altitude as much as possible to avoid a lot of ups and downs, you can see on the map above that I came pretty close. 


Still a fair bit of bogs that had to be navigated. No dry feet here. 

It was a really fun little section to do. 

Getting up to the top of Burnt Hill you regain a really defined track. I sat at the top of Burnt Hill and had lunch. 


Lovely to look around at lunch time (photos above and below)

It is an easy walk now going over to Cairn Caidloch.
(Below a panorama, just before Cairn Caidloch) Looking back to Burnt Hill and my day so far. 

Trig point at Cairn Caidloch. Mt Keen, to the right, in the distance. 

I spent a good amount of time on top of Cairn Caidloch taking photos and just soaking in the views,  I didn't notice the storm, that was brewing, sneak up on me. 

Now it was a race to get down the hill before the worst of the storm came over the top I was standing on! 
I got far enough down the hill, that just a bit of rain got me as I neared the bottom. You can see the Hill of Rowan Monument, through the rain shower, in the distance.

It was down through a farmers complex and by his house and across the road to the path up to the Hill of Rowan.

First lamb that didn't run away when I got my phone out. 

Past the Hill of Rowan and down the other side into Tarfside. 


St Drostan's Church, Tarfside















The Challenge takes over the rectory, every year, during the Challenge. When you arrive at St Drostan's the great Challenge volunteers are there to supply coffee, tea, bacon buddies, and most importantly homemade cakes! 


Challenger's gather in the living room and it is great time to socialize and catch up. 

This is my third time to Tarfside. This year, for the first time, I also snagged a bed, and to follow up on my deal with Mr. Walker, the plan was to tell him that I got the last bed and he would have to set up his tent in the soccer field, as most Challengers do. Mad n' Bad arrived just minutes after I did, so the joke was pretty good for a few moments! 
I got St Peter's room. I tried to be on my best behavior.


Another bit of magic for this trip was the Mason Arms decided to open tonight. The local masonic lodge in town has been open each year for the Challenge serving a full bar and hamburgers, but over the past couple of years of COVID and most nights during this Challenge, they have not been open, but tonight was back to old times. 

Sitting outside drinking a beer and having a cheeseburger or two, made on the outside grille, socializing with other challengers, is the proper way to spend the late afternoon in Tarfside and really this is what Tarfside is about. Tarfside traditionally marks the end of the hills with just a day and half walk to the North Sea and your finish point.  


However, sitting outside the Mason Arms drinking my second beer, I reminded myself, I still have 3 or (2 1/2) days to go. Those days also contain hills, so I drank another beer.  


Special thanks to the Mason Arms for opening and providing me with yet another great memory for this year and the Challenge Staff at St Drostan's 
Ann and Alvar Thorn, Rita and Gus McKinnon

Today's Stats:



It was a very good day
Support Our National Parks - Preserve - Protect - Enjoy