We are up and packed up with lots of anticipation and some anxiety for today. In fact as the title suggests this is a rather long day for the first day back walking. It is not hard walking by any means, there is no real elevation gain but it comes in around 17 miles, which is longer than any day Vicky did before being injured.
First things first after packing up, we again walk down the road to The Retreat for breakfast, a nice treat before starting out.
We are not alone as soon the place is packed with Challengers. This is really the last day Challengers will be coming through Tarfside so everyone is heading out on their final days to the sea.
If you wanted to look at all your backpack options then this would be a good morning to do it as just about every kind of pack was lined up outside the B&B. To make it easy on the staff we sat as many people to a table as we could get, even though we ordered separately, Vicky and I were one of the first to arrive and leave, so I ended up paying for every Challenger at my table as our server didn't take out just the bill for Vicky and I. Oh well they were all nice chaps!
The first few miles are road walking, never that great, but the road was quiet and the scenery great. The path we want for today is actually on the opposite side of the River North Esk that we started on. It is usually no problem to find a bridge to cross over and get on the nice smooth dirt path. However with the recent floods many of the bridges were damaged and are actually out of service. I had checked my maps and it appeared that the one on my route was the one that was available to cross.
However when we reached our turn off point to the bridge there was a sign that said the bridge was out. This was unexpected blow for so early in the day, mostly as it meant more road walking into busier traffic to a possible next bridge. This was further frustrating for me as I could see Challengers that were actually across the river on the correct path.... How did they get there?
I would find out later that there are actually two bridges close to each other and the sign was for only one of them. ugh!
After walking another road mile we came to the second of the bridges I could see on my map, a black bridge on a lovely estate of Milden Lodge, We had to walk through a gate to get close enough to see that it too was out and under repair. We couldn't go back now, we had to trudge on down the road. This was not the day I was hoping for.....
It would be another 5 miles of road walking before the next opportunity to cross the river. In the meantime we ran across Willie Todd from France, he had also missed all the bridges this morning coming from The Retreat after breakfast.
We walked on all together and eventually came to a side road that got close to the river and promised a low water crossing. At this point I knew we were going to get wet, it was just a question of how wet.
We followed the path, which turned out to be access to some fishing huts along the river. We passed a farm field being cultivated for potatoes and managed to ask one of the workers if they knew about any access across the river. They were actually conscripts from down south in England up plowing the fields on consignment work. They were very nice but did not know the area.
We walked on an eventually we ran out of path at the low water crossing of the river. Wide but moving slow and not too deep.
Vicky is alway game when a decision has to be made so she was first to cross. Her favorite camp shoes came in handy to keep her hiking shoes dry and give her some traction on the slick rock underneath.
This was nowhere near the difficulty that was the crossing of the mouth of Loch Etive on day 3. So just a nice cold wade in the water and we are across.
Drying everything off before continuing. The cold water actually felt good after all that road walking.
Ironically within 2 miles we had to cross back over to the side of the river we had just come from, on a new bridge, but I can tell you that those two miles were well worth it on my feet compared to the road.
But I spoke to soon.. once over the bridge and up a hill of gorse flowers we were back on that same B road! a mile or two in a big group.
Off the road at the Rocks of Solitude trail
So far the day had been a bit of a bust, but it was about to turn grand!
Fantastic walking
We walked past the "rocks of solitude" and into many gorges as the walls of the river canyon narrowed
I wondered out loud if anyone had ever tried this section of river in a kayak?
At the end of this first section is the famous "Blue Door." As it turns out it is just an access door that leads onto a bridge along the B road. No leprechauns, no enchanted land beyond.
It did however lead across the road, into the county of Angus and to the second half of the path along the narrows
more great scenery. the path got narrower so you couldn't be looking and walking in some spots!
Closing in on Edzell, a field of rapeseed oil flowers
You remember Edzell? We waited for our school bus here. This time we arrive right on time, despite our early morning bridge issue, to have lunch and ice cream at the Tuck Inn, another Challenge institution and something on my bucket list for this year.
More packs line the fence outside the Tuck Inn as we eat our lunch inside
Fish and chips and ice cream and now you want us to continue to hike in the afternoon? Well yes, actually there is still 5 miles to go in the day, so it was very hard to get motivated to continue but off we went out of Edzell
The road we needed to follow actually bisected in a farmers barnyard. How bizarre to see cars navigate around various barns and livestock as they continue on a road.
The cattle were actually HUGE. We are talking thousands of pounds of beef!
A series of lovely minor roads after a few hairy moments around a timber company factory with giant tractors and logging equipment whizzing down the road.
And look we are home. I want to invite all the Challengers to come and camp on my lawn.... Ok not my home, but isn't this one spectacular!
The Estate of Inglesmaldie
Only a mile or so from that magnificent estate is the campground at North Water Bridge. Sunshine and friendly faces as we get into the campsite right on time and relax for the remainder of the day.
I am sure Vicky was tired and worn out, but she didn't show it, after a bit of a nap, she was around to talk with Challengers and was happy again to see Louise and Emma turn up along with the very funny Kevin Everett. The three of them were a constant hoot and a half. Ian Cotterill and a few others from Tarfside also made North Water Bridge their final campsite of this Challenge.
OK, so your day wasn't perfect according to plan, but what a good day it turned out to be. You met new people, ate some good food, met up with old friends and the scenery was beautiful! All in all, this was one of my favorites from your blog!!
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