I spent last weekend hiking a beautiful section of the Ozark Highland Trail a section that shares this part of the trail with the Buffalo River Trail. This section runs along the beautiful Buffalo River for 43 miles from Woolum Campground to Dillard's Ferry
This trip was organized by Stephanie, a friend from our Facebook Hiking group, who I have hiked with before on several group events and is a very experienced hiker along with another member of our group that Stephanie has hiked with several times, Michael. I had not met Mike before, but he is a super nice guy and a very strong, experienced hiker as well. Stephanie has been pursuing the Sassafras Award.
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| internet photo |
The Ozark Highlands Trail (Lake Fort Smith State Park to Woolum and Spring Creek to Matney Knob)- 254 miles
The Buffalo River Trail (Boxley to Pruitt and Woolum to Dillard’s Ferry)-37 miles
The Ozark Trail (Western Trailhead of Eleven Point Section to Onondaga Trailhead)-230 miles
This is a significant accomplishment as these trails add up to 750 miles of hiking.
The trail tread and width both improved on this section. This was the best day for climbing and descending with hardly any issues
The top of one of the rock cliffs with the stream pouring over the top
However just beyond, a wild boar had met its end and it looks like, in the circle of life, become food for many other animals
Lunch at Spring Creek. Where we finally talked through the nagging issue that we had known about since starting the trail. Since the beginning of the trip the weather forecast for tomorrow had called for between 1-3 inches of snow. We were all prepared for snow. Snow is dryer than rain and presents no real problem, as we have the gear for it and have all hiked in it before. However, the forecast had changed and was now calling for sleet to the biggest part of the precipitation. Sleet is basically 32 to 35 degrees and raining, probably the most dangerous time to be out on trail, even for prepared hikers. It only takes one slip up to get wet and be a candidate for hypothermia. As much as Stephanie really wanted to finish up the second section she had planned for this trip, we all decided, since we would be well into the woods when the next storm was predicted, it wasn't worth the risk...
After lunch there was a small up, big down, the biggest up of the trip, in terms of elevation gain, and then downhill to the end, making up the last 5 miles of the trip.
Stephanie at the first of the two best overlooks
We were up to the last impressive formation near the top in no time.
The trail register at the end of the last downhill of this section
Back to the parking lot/trailhead at Dillard's Ferry. It will take us about two and half hours to shuttle around to retrieve all the cars.
Thank you Stephanie for letting me come on your adventure. Mike it was a pleasure to meet you in person and it was a pleasure to hike with you both. I am game for the return.
Stephanie had five days set aside to complete this section and the smaller required section from Spring Creek Trailhead to Matney Knob
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| You can see a gap between Dillard's Ferry and Spring Creek TH, that is still to be completed |
Since these long trails are all just in one direction (not loops) the logistics can be difficult if you want to cover larger distances or multiple sections, Stephanie posted for anyone that would like to come and hike, but also drive to be able to handle the multiple sections- (of course I volunteered!)
We needed to start the day after Thanksgiving, so after cooking for 14 people at my house, I left my house at 3 am Friday morning. I drove the 5 hours from my house to meet them at the Dillard's Ferry trailhead, they had come down the night before to stage cars at Matney Knob trailhead, I then drove everyone another hour to the Woolum trailhead, where I would leave my vehicle and we would start the trail.
A shocking way to start the hike! Stephanie and I crossing the very cold Buffalo River! Fortunately, the recent rains had not raised the level above knee height here.
While you are up, the views are stunning.
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| Photo from Mike |
We started hiking around 10:30 am, after I have been up since 2 am, we still needed to cover about 13 miles to reach our planned destination and sunset was at 5 pm.
In our favor was that it was a crisp, beautiful day!
Once out of the Buffalo River and its flood plain the trail climbs up to the top of the ridges that travel along the side of the Buffalo River. Unfortunately, it doesn't stay up the whole time. Today and the rest of the weekend would be spent climbing high (around 1000' max) to truly excellent views and then diving back down to the hollow and creeks between the ridges. This is not really all that unusual for Midwest (Ozark area trails) A screen shot from the FarOut trail app shows the normal trail profile.
This is the trail at the last lookout on Day 3, described below. The grade is almost 8% overall and the first section of the climb, on the rock stairs, is 12.5%. This is typical of our entire weekend.
But even on the downs there is beauty to be found.
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| Turtle shell without the turtle |
How do you get a car back here? Judging from the style of car, it has to have been here for 60-70 years (and it wasnt the Toyota missing its tailgate) 😆
Since two trails share this section, the trail markers trade off between the OHT and BRT
Old settler Cemeteries and building foundations are scattered along the trail
Stephanie at one of the many overlooks today
Today was suppose to be our wettest day with multiple water crossings, however it turned out that except for the main Buffalo River all the major water sources were completely dry. Not a good sign for us to get enough water on this hike.
This was Calf Creek (below) the last of the large creeks for the day and where we expected to get wet crossing and easily get enough water for our camp, dinner and the next morning.... DRY
The shadows were long all day but gave an especially nice look to the woods as we topped out on the last climb of the day after Calf Creek
We planned to finish the day around Tyler Bend trailhead, but I don't know if any of us knew that it was an old homestead historic site of the Collier Homestead. This was one of the last homestead created by the homestead act of 1862 and gave settlers 40 acres of land. The Collier Homestead was founded in 1931. This turned out to be the perfect place to stop for the night.
While walking up the last hill we debated rather to walk the extra 1.3 miles to the Tylor Bend Campground to get water and also to stay the night ($20 to set up a tent😟) However when we arrived at the Collier Homestead there was a terrific couple from Iowa, who offered to drive us to the campground and save us the walk- super!
Then we we got to the parking lot, another outstanding guy from Florida (up from Florida to Iowa in winter?😇)
He was out car camping and offered us all the water we needed from his supply, what an angel 👼
Saving ourselves the 2.6 mile round trip from the campground and successfully Yogi'ing water. We went back down the short path to the homestead, where I discovered that I had left my cooking kit in my truck when I repacked my pack before we started this morning (ugh, what a rooking mistake!)
Both Mike and Stephanie offered to make hotf water for me but without a pot or anything to hold boiling water well, it didn't really work.... 😬... oh well, I brought enough food, I wasn't going to starve
the evening sunset was beautiful and it had been a very good day for walking. Day 1=13 miles
I found a spot out of the wind beside a very old fence and slept from 7 pm to 5 am!
Day 2
Day 2 the weather was changing. Today the forecast was for significant rain and colder temperatures. A concerning combination, but we had all prepared for today. This was also needing to be our longest day of the three at around 16 miles. Fortunately, we get to make a much earlier start than yesterday.
This is perhaps my favorite picture with Mike and Stephanie using the homestead porch as cover to pack everything away and stay out of the drizzle.
Passing a trail camera, a deer stand and a hunters camp
The sky did not give much confidence this morning, but since it had remained overcast the temperatures did not fall to the expected low in the 20's overnight, but remained in the high 30's.
setting off
First couple miles are uneventful reaching the Hwy 65 underpass.
Stopping to sign the BRT register on the only trail bridge of the trip.
many more homestead foundations today
Rain starts and out come the umbrellas
climbing up high still gave great views of the Buffalo River and surrounding cliffs and forest
Today also has some significant geological features as you passed over and under the cliffs.
The only significant trail maintenance we saw on the trail, but it was very appreciated as this bamboo would have been almost impossible to bushwhack through had the path not been cleared away
A let up in the rain so time for lunch.
Many more of these boundary markers today along with Bearing Tree markers
Long ago cemeteries
What looks like the remains of any old railroad bridge
Our one major creek crossing today, Bear Creek, also bone dry
A boundary line of pines along the trail
The climbs were hard today. There were more switchbacks and the grades were not as steep as day one, but the climbs and descents we on trails that were severely slopped and very small tread width. We were "side hilling" most of the day, on very bent ankles, when you went up or down in elevation, in addition, the trail was littered with tiny "ball bearing" sized rocks hiding under the wet leaves making footing very difficult and tiring.
very "slopey" today
You didn't dare look around while climbing or descending, your focus had to be on placing your feet, but when you reached the top the views, despite the clouds, was still fantastic
At around 4 pm, we found water in Rocky Creek and then climbed up to the high point just above (950') and found a fantastic campsite. This was not mentioned on the FarOut app, but was the perfect spot.
We made it with enough time to relax, cook and chat before the sun went down.
Set up with a great view. Our 16 miles done today, leaving just 14 for tomorrow.
A beautiful sunset, but a clear sky means the temperatures were going to drop. Low 20's tonight if the forecast is correct.
DAY 3
Good morning. It did get cold last night. I am glad to have brought my 10 degree quilt.
This was going to be the best day of the weekend. Yes it was going to be cold, but perfect blue skies started the day with a lovely sunrise over the cliff to the river, right in front of my tent.
We were up and out of camp a bit early, saving breakfast for on trail. Wrapped up against the morning chill.
First frost flowers of the season on trail
We walked about a mile going more uphill than I had remembered from looking at the map the night before.
We were just about to break out to a lovely high bald when it dawned on us, there should not be a hunters camp and all these hunting signs on the trail? Sure enough we had missed our turn off this old logging road and climbed needlessly. We would need to retreat about half mile back
Having walked a full extra mile (which doesn't count) we regained the trail- at a perfectly noticeable sign, that we just plain missed.
The highlight of today would be filled with some really interesting rock and water features.
Each of tall cliffs would have a small stream running off the top. Not enough water to create the waterfall now, but you could see how this section would be beautiful in the Spring with each having a waterfall
The trail tread and width both improved on this section. This was the best day for climbing and descending with hardly any issues
The views early today were great, but with little clear viewing early in the day.
More frost flowers
and more views
A small stream marked as "Ephemeral" on the trail app, lived up to its name with a shimmering pool.
The day went on like this, no problem with finding water here, climbing, descending with brief flat bits between ridges.
14 miles got chewed up quickly.
Lunch at Spring Creek. Where we finally talked through the nagging issue that we had known about since starting the trail. Since the beginning of the trip the weather forecast for tomorrow had called for between 1-3 inches of snow. We were all prepared for snow. Snow is dryer than rain and presents no real problem, as we have the gear for it and have all hiked in it before. However, the forecast had changed and was now calling for sleet to the biggest part of the precipitation. Sleet is basically 32 to 35 degrees and raining, probably the most dangerous time to be out on trail, even for prepared hikers. It only takes one slip up to get wet and be a candidate for hypothermia. As much as Stephanie really wanted to finish up the second section she had planned for this trip, we all decided, since we would be well into the woods when the next storm was predicted, it wasn't worth the risk...
We would finish the hike at the end of this section and head home before the storm arrived. Returning to concentrating on today, it could not have been a more beautiful place to spend for lunch.
What followed though, were some of the best views of the entire trip
Stephanie at the first of the two best overlooks
Mike
I had thought the last climb, being the largest, would have taken the longest. The trail went almost straight up, built on well constructed stairs made from the natural rock. The trail builders for the OHT/BRT sure like to make stairs and I will say the do it very well.
The final overlook did not disappoint
A little snack (trying to eat everything left in our food bags! 😉)
On the way to get the last car, Stephanie called into La Torcia Brick Oven Pizzeria in Mountain Home Arkansas. This was just 20 minutes from the last car location at Matney Knob and on the way home for all of us back to Missouri. Meat Lovers Pizza hit the spot.
Nothing better than Pizza at the end of a hike.
I finished dinner around 8 pm and was back home by 12:15 am.
It was a wonderful weekend in the woods.
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