The morning however started out relatively smoke free. Leaving camp the sky's were clear. I think there was just enough humidity in the air at night to knock down the smoke and then when the sun comes up and the humidity goes down and the temperatures go up the smoke can return.
Leaving Granite Park Campsite above and below
Today was great hiking. we are contouring along a long line of mountains just below the actual Continental Divide and on the Continental Divide Trail (CDT). We follow them in and out, usually with some kind of water source on the most inward area and then curving around to the next.
New growth (below) starts from the old fire areas
Below, I captured Corey coming around the corner in silhouette to the growing fire smoke in the valley below
The trail was steep in some spots. All of today showed great trail building
A view of the valley below now completely filled with smoke
The top of the pass is only .3 miles each way, but 400 feet in elevation gain, but it had to be done!
He did exhibit perfect bear behavior and veered off the trail and down into the valley at a full run.
But it was the view on the other side that takes your breath away. A view without any smoke yet and a glimpse into the future as this is Helen Lake that we will be staying at on our last night on the trail 3 nights from now.
In fact the arrow shows the exact spot that you will see in future posts so take note of how clear the view is today as it will be the last time we see all of Helen Lake.
More glaciers on the sides of the mountains within touching distance
As a matter of fact I couldn't resist just taking a bit of a rest on an ancient patch of snow and ice
Descending back to the trail the fire smoke had started to visibly move up the valley and onto the flanks of the mountain and our trail.
Our world was starting to visually contract. the trees looked like ghosts in the mist of the smoke
Just as our throats started to get scratchy and dry a lovely glacier waterfall cascades down the mountain from another unseen glacier
Joe tries to keep his feet dry but in the end we just all stand in the water to cool off and take pictures
The landscape on the ground then remarkable changes to match the Mars like air quality.
Cory and I on another long gradual uphill
The smoke gets heavier and heavier and all that is clear is just what is right in front of you.
This is the view we should have at this point
internet photo
There was some movement in the rocks a pair of Hoary Marmot's. If you look close in the yellow box you will see one watching us go by.
After the last few miles hiking on Mars we were glad to see a grassy field leading to our campsite for the night
50 Mountain Campsite sits literally right on the Continental Divide.
There were a couple of GNP employees working the area doing trail maintenance and other tasks. They had become the conduit to pass along information about the trail and trail closures to hikers. They had just posted that the Flattop Mountain Trail was now closed due to fire exposure
and the Waterton boat, which was one of our escape routes that the Ranger had advised us about, was no longer an option as they had decided the last boat of the season would be tomorrow because of new fires in the Waterton area. This was the reason for the added smoke in air today. We are now as far from the beginning as the end. As Willy Wonka once said "you have to go forward to go back"
So we made dinner and relaxed.
Sunset again proved to be eerie and beautiful
Bonus insight
Campsite rating based on your privy view- part 2
While this privy had a door, most everyone leaves it open when in use because of the smell, so this one definitely qualifies as a grand view.
Bonus insight 2
Bear Story
You will hear your fellow hikers on the trail during the day call out "Hey Bear" or "Yo Bear" which is fairly common, but not at 12:30 am!
I had been asleep when I woken up by a very loud and deliberate shouting of "Hey Bear" one that you immediately know is associated with a real bear sighting. As it happens one of our fellow campsite dwellers was cowboy camping (sleeping out in the open- no tent or tarp) and was awoken by a grizzly circling his position. He did scare it away, but we learned in the morning that it persisted in circling his campsite until 3:30 am which keep them up the remainder of the night. I was lying in my tent and because it orientation was starring directly down the trail I expected to see a big ball of fur lumbering up the trail for the next hour until I could fall asleep again.
Bear Story
You will hear your fellow hikers on the trail during the day call out "Hey Bear" or "Yo Bear" which is fairly common, but not at 12:30 am!
I had been asleep when I woken up by a very loud and deliberate shouting of "Hey Bear" one that you immediately know is associated with a real bear sighting. As it happens one of our fellow campsite dwellers was cowboy camping (sleeping out in the open- no tent or tarp) and was awoken by a grizzly circling his position. He did scare it away, but we learned in the morning that it persisted in circling his campsite until 3:30 am which keep them up the remainder of the night. I was lying in my tent and because it orientation was starring directly down the trail I expected to see a big ball of fur lumbering up the trail for the next hour until I could fall asleep again.
Today was my favorite day of the trip, it had everything I love about being outside on a trail!
This was my favorite account as well! Great scenes, and interesting narration! I can see how you must love the hiking experience when you are able to go places like this. However, the idea of a bear wanting to get close to me is not my cup of tea!!!! You are lucky to have guys who share your joy of places like this. Waiting for the next post----
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