TGOC'24 Day 3 Glensulaig Bothy to Ben Nevis Campground May 12, 2024

It has been a nice warm up to this point and my couch to trail strategy has not been as bad on my as I thought it would be. However today things get a bit more serious in terms of distance. 24 miles (38km) and from the looks of things pretty boggy ground for a good portion of it. 

I was up really early and made a point to be super quiet so not to wake Sue and John. They had a longish day as well today. 

It is a bit of tricky exit from the Bothy area to get going. There is no clearly defined way to head up Glen Sulaig. You know you have to go upstream. A little wooden bridge is your only clue as to how to get going. The picture below is looking back at the Bothy in the cluster of trees. 

There is a hydro works a few hundred yards from the bothy. In fact a sizable road dead ends at the works. Why it is here and what it is doing, I do not know. There is no generator or electric service visible. These have perplexed me for many years. These small hydro works are on many estates, but don't seem to add any value. If I followed the money, I am sure I would discover the answer, but for now, it appears to be a man-made dam and waterfall! 

Starting out, the OS map shows you along what remains of the An t-Suileag, but this just doesn't look right. There was some track here but very quickly it just becomes some tractor tracks in the bog.  This has my feet wet and picking my way around the really sinky bits. Will this day be like the last half of yesterday? (yuck)

A closer look at the map (it is early) and I see that the official line has risen 30 meters above me and I have not! I immediately turn and climb up the incline and I find what I am looking for, a path and one that has some solidity to it. My first thought was how do I tell John and Sue to not miss the good path, but they are more experienced than I and probably will not miss it to begin with. 

with only a few exceptions this is great walking for the next couple hours. We end at a beautiful sheep farm.

Through the gates and on to a very nice walk along the River Loy 

In no time, you reach civilization. paved road, lovely cottages (a couple big houses) and the largest rhododendrons I have seen.

who can ask for a better Sunday morning walk

The road is rather tough on the feet for a couple more hours, but the road is dead quiet and I eventually pass Inverkilavulin House, a very grand old house converted into a self-catering lodge. 

Finally after a few more miles you arrive at Loy Bridge. this is an aqueduct. The Caledonian Canal flows over the top of you as you walk underneath. 

It was about here that I remember what Vanessa Ling, a Challenge legend, mentioned yesterday when we encountered her just outside of Glenfinnan. I had mentioned my route going into Ft William and she had immediately said there as a better way, by going south and then through the forest and finally into Fort William via Gleann Laragain. Feeling my feet now, I would have to say that she was exactly right! 

Passing under Loy Bridge. 

emerging on the other side you get a great view of Ben Nevis and the supporting hills. 

The Caledonian Canal. A big ditch you walk along, but since I have been into watching Narrowboat videos lately, this was actually a bit more exciting... 

It is somewhat of an accomplishment (bragging rights) in the US to do 10 miles before 10 am. Below is my first 10 by 10 day of this year's Challenge. 

It is around 3.5 miles (5ish km) of walking to reach Neptune Staircase lochs.

I had planned to walk into Ft William and shop at Morrison's, by the train station, and shop for the next few days as fate would have it, I walked right by a Co-Op, my favorite neighborhood grocery stores. 

My pack and I go shopping.

Shopping done, and Magnum in hand I continue walking, admiring the view of Ben Nevis ahead. 

Having no need to go into Ft William proper, after crossing over the River Lochy footbridge, I can cut through some neighborhood streets and cross over the River Nevis on a small footbridge just west of Nevis Bridge and continue on the GGW and Glen Nevis road to the campground  

Loch Lochy Footbridge, with dramatic background 

Arriving at the Ben Nevis Campground. This is huge campground with tent sites, hobbit huts and RV sites. 

Got a tent spot just under a large tree. 

They have a large patio for sitting out and looking at the views of Ben Nevis

It is not all glamor and fun, Chores have to be done on a multi day hike and one of them is laundry. I do bring a set of "sleep clothes" but I never change into them. I sleep in my hiking clothes and save the other for emergency or if I would be very wet during the day. My hiking clothes could walk on their own at this point, so they needed a wash. 

While clothes were washing, I could also use a wash. Having only my rain gear to put on afterwards and no towel, I appreciated the hand dryer with an attachment., Everything got blown dry! 😉😆

Then it was beer o clock and a few 

Later the food "truck" which is permanent opened and the fish and chips was huge and fantastic. 

I was feed and watered and off to bed for another long day tomorrow. 

Today's stats, about 24 miles. I included the alternative route that Vanessa mentioned.