TGOC '22 Day 7 Aviemore to Ruigh Aiteachain Bothy

I didn't sleep particularly well last night, although I should have. The Cairngorm Guest House is a fantastic place to stay, as I mentioned a bit too fancy for me solo, but Vicky and I had stayed there before and they were very nice and accommodating, and the same was true this time. Almost everywhere in Aviemore was full for the night! The bed was comfy, the shower was fantastic and I had more than enough to drink at the Winking Owl last night that I should have slept soundly. What was keeping me up was today's ascent into the Cairngorms and Ben MacDui. I had worried all night that the weather would be too bad and the winds would be too high. Strange, since I have been much higher, in much worse weather than anything I have ever encountered in Scotland. By the morning, I had talked myself into my FWA (foul weather alternative), going the long way round through the Feshie forest. The day was blustery even in the forest but I spoke to several friends later that confirmed the wind picked up a bit on the tops, but it turned out to be the only really decent day for views in the whole two week period. I consoled myself with what a lovely walk it was through the gorgeous forest and simply enjoyed the day walking alone. There would be further surprises later on that made my decision a good one, but for now I was on a three day trip around the Cairngorms to Braemar, which would put me a day behind schedule, but I figured I would actually make that up walking alone with no problem. 

The CGH is really a very fine place, albeit a bit pricey. They were again really accommodating to let me have breakfast early at 7:30 and not have to wait for the normal starting time of 8 am. A full Scottish breakfast seemed appropriate for this morning. 

Their dining area is two rooms and I always pick the glass room with the views. 

They are under new ownership since the last time I stayed, the previous owners retired,  but everything including most of the staff are the same. It is really a nice place. 

Walking out of Aviemore you take the bicycle path as soon a you can by the information kiosk and that takes you off the sidewalks of town and along the river. You cross over the river into the 'Hidden Woods' just past the Old Bridge Inn and get into the beginnings of the Rothiemurchus Forest.

St John the Baptist Church

The path into the Feshie is easy to find. It actually has a parking lot and a kiosk. The Rothiemurchus Forest proper. 

There are many paths in the forest, some just social trails. I actually got off the 'main' path and stumbled upon this lovely lochan (Lochan Mor). I had to stop for just a moment and just sit and look. It was a beautiful morning.  It is easy to right yourself as all the paths intertwine. 

Remains of old crofting buildings 

The next major feature in the forest is Loch an Eilein. This looks to be a major 'park' I am not sure if it is private or if people can sail and swim in the lake. It has a parking area and looks to be fee based, but we have several areas like this in State Parks, in the US, and they are very popular. I had heard that ice cream was available here at the store, but I was far to early for them to be open. 😒 

It a bit further on, trying to be efficient with my route planning, I had noticed that I could save a good bit of walking if I could cut over a hill and pick up a track in the forest, it would keep me moving in the correct direction. 

It looks as I imagined. Up a steep hill! 

It was not hard and only lasted for a moment. Pro Tip. When I got to the top of the hill, I turned around and there is a new car park, not shown on the map,  just a few hundred yards from where I came up the hill, along the path I was on. you can a gate and a social path coming up the fence line. People are using this access more than I had thought! It is an easy walk now along the fence line to find a break in an old stone wall.

Once through the wall it is completely trackless, but from the map you can see a forest track both above and below your position. I chose to go up. You have just a few moments of bog hopping and you emerge on a path, which becomes a track

And what a view you are rewarded with!!!!

It is a very nice walk now through the forest. Below is a video of the wind picking up (not really) but I was still trying to justify my choice of going round at this point. Eventually I accepted the day for what it would bring with no regrets. 

Arriving at a split in the forest and taking the one toward Feshiebridge.

Arriving at Feshiebridge- who would have thought it was an actual bridge? 

The days of rain had left every river and stream swollen, but this was a real torrent going under the bridge 

Goes under very fast, but comes out the other side slower and gentler.

Rights of way to Deeside- yes please 

It is a good thing there is a Rights of Way sign just after the bridge because the path takes you so close to this cottage you can see in the windows! It is also a candidate for cottage of the year. It looks old, but it is brand new. 

I was just in time to watch a white water group practice in the very swift water. I was worried I might be watching a tragedy unfold, but all was well and very professional. good training and practice

Walking on it was time for lunch. This lovely old wall had a stream running by it and some nice soft grass. Time for a break. 

meat and cheese sandwiches are good anytime. 

Breaks are good times to air out the feet and dry the socks.

After lunch I go right down on the Feshie River proper. What fantastic views. 

 

Here the Feshie is wide and slow. The beautiful and obviously clear views from the tops of the Cairngorms in the background 

The clear winner in this year's competition- yes I will live here. Really just the two story wing on the right of your picture with the windows looking to the Cairngorms. 

A lovely and well done chainsaw sculpture outside the conference center. 

Just more beautiful woods. 

and more

The track does become paved for quit a bit and then you reach the point you need to cross over the Feshie to be on the correct side for the bothy later. So in hindsight,  a point of contention with my vetter. He had corrected my route and marked Stronetoper as the last bridge across the Feshie. There is a bridge here, shown on the OS 25K map, but in real life I couldn't see it or find it. It also does not appear on Google Earth! It is just as well as I was too busy looking at all the scenery when I passed by the Stronetoper house. I continued on to what was my original choice of bridge crossing at NN 850 964. I could see it on Google Earth and sure enough it is the bridge below.  

View from crossing the bridge 

Now on the correct side of the Feshie 

Many people must use this path as it is wide and smooth. I also started to see a lot of walkers and cyclists

Evidence that the Feshie has eroded and 'eaten' into the bank here as the original path has been washed away

Looking back I have marked the path where it used to be. 

This part of the forest was just shockingly green! 

and still the lovely walking today continues 

Another section that has been washed away. This has happened at multiple points along the trail today.

I finally reached my destination for today Ruigh Aiteachain Bothy. 

This bothy is owned by the Feshie Estate and they have invested in completely renovating it for walkers and are also engaged in 're-wilding' the whole of the Glen Feshie area buy re-introducing trees to the hills and glens and greatly thinning the deer population, which is a major contributor to the deforestation. 

They have spent a lot of money updating and essentially rebuilding this bothy, all for the benefit of those that use the Glen for recreation. 

It might have been enough if that was the end of my day. An excellent walk of 20 miles in the forest followed by a nice evening in a lovely spot. But is wasn't, because this bothy comes with its own caretaker. In this case, Lyndsay. He could not be any more perfect for his role if he was cast by a Hollywood director. 

Dressed in traditional tweeds. He was quick to offer tea, coffee and a biscuit. As other Challengers and walkers arrived, it was an endless afternoon of great stories and conversation. Lyndsay is quick witted, with a sharp sense of humor, and I can tell, doesn't suffer fools.

Heaven forbid you fell into the trap of not being able to decide what tea you would like! 

After a few rounds of tea, John and I offered to do the dishes. Out back we went, to the spring fed stream that supplies the water and a good rinse for the china. 

I had occupied a chair for too long and more people where arriving. I had intended to stay in the bothy to stay closer to the 'action' but with more and more people arriving, I would let them stay inside in the limited spaces in the upstairs lofts. I couldn't resist the fantastic setting of pitching my tent under the huge Caledonian Pines. 

My tent, the Caledonian Pine and the bothy in the background

The evening carried on with more tea, the arrival of Gordon, Emma and Louise. Hot water for dinner making and more conversation. A really, really good way to spend the day and a more memorable day than just a view from high up. 

A very special thanks to Lyndsay for hosting, the Feshie Estate for doing so much work in the Glen and on the Ruigh Aiteachain Bothy. This will be a stellar walk for Vicky and I to do together some time. 

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